Sewed article and method of making same



W. DREIGINAS Filed Jan,

SEWED ARTICLE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Ir l June 16,` 1925.

Patented June 16, 1925.

l UNITED `sTATEs 1,542,678 PATENT-OFFICE.

i Y, WALTER DREIGINAS, or BALTIMORE, MARYLAND.

SEWED ARTICLE AND METHOD F MAKING SAME.

VApplication filed January 31, 1924. Serial No. 689,655;

To all/whom t may concern.'

Be it known that I, WALTER DREIGINAS, a citizen of the United States,residing at Baltimore, State of Maryland, haveinvented certain new anduseful Improvements in Sewed Articles and Methods of Making Same; and Ido hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exactdescription vet() of the invention, such as will enable others skilledin the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

This invention relates to sewed articles and methods of making same. Forconvenience,=the invention will be illustrated and described as used inconnection with coats or similar articles of apparel, but it is to beunderstood that the invention may be used with other articles ofappareland when reference is' made to coats throughout the specification andclaims it is to be understood that this term broadly 'includes other'articles of apparel of a similarnature.

To satisfy the demand of the trade or for otherreasons, articles ofapparel, such as coats, for example, are often made vwith only a partiallining, leaving part of the insideof the coat bare or uncovered withlining material. When such unlined coats are provided with pockets ofthetype having a pocket bag attached tothe inside, a covering piece'orpatchis secured to the inside ofthe coat in such a position as to coveror conceal this pocket bag which, if exposed, would not presenta neat orlinished appearance.

Abulging on the outside of the ygarment when `some article is beingcarried Vin the pocket is in itself objectionable, `but the repeatedstretching of the coat material around the pocket, especially thematerial below the pocket slot or opening, quickly resultsin a permanentoutward bulging of the material atthis point and this is especiallyobjectionable. Furthermore, in sewing the patch to the coat material, itis desirable to use machine sewing instead of hand sewing vfor severalreasons. In the first place, machine sewing is `much cheaper than handsewing,

`but another and equally important Lreason n V'tor preferring machinesewing resides in the fact that machine stitches are neater andholdbetter than hand stitches. This last mentionedadvantage ofv themachine sewing becomes all the more material when it is realized that institching the patch to :the coat material, the stitches must not gokentirely through thecoat material and show on the outside of the coatbecause this would, of course, spoil the appearance of the garment. Inother words, felling or blindstitching is used to secure the patch tothe coat material, therefore, in sewing the Y.patch to thecoat material,it is desirable to use machine felling or blindstitching instead ofvhandfelling because machine ,fell-L ing is much cheaper, holds better andlooks neater than hand felling. y n y A principalV object of thisinvention is to form and attach or secure a pocket patch to an articleof apparel entirely by automatic machine stitching, the patch beingconnected to ythe material carrying the ,pocket in such a way that thepatchy can move a predetermined distance away from .the materialcarrying the pocket andthus prevent yto a large extent, if not entirely,the outward bulging of that part of the garment around the pocket whensome article is placed in the pocket.

In order to afford a full understanding of the principles underlying theinvention without intending thereby to limit the invention to theparticular details disclosed, reference will be made to the accompanyingdrawings which illustrate certain practical einbodiments of theinvention.

vIn the drawings. y

F ig.' l is a planview of one form ofr sewed article Vembodying theinvention, Y

Fig. 2 is a sectional view taken on the ,line 2 2 of Fig. 2

Fig. 3 is a plan view of another form ,of

`sewed article embodying `the invention,

' Fig. 4i is a sectional view taken on the line 4 4 of'Fig. 3,

Fig. 5 is a sectional view taken on the line 5-5 of either Fig. l orFig. 3.

Referring to the drawings, 10 indicates a section or piece of cloth orother material forming a part of some article of apparel as, forinstance, an overcoat.V 11 indicates a pocket slit or opening providedin the material 10, slit or opening 11 affording' access to the pocketor bag 12 attached to the side of the cloth forming the inside of thecoat or other article 0f apparel. Pocket bag 12 is attached to material10 so that the mouth of the pocket bag is adjacent slit or entrance 11.A pocket flap 13 attached to material 10 may cover the pocket opening11. This general form of pocket construction is well known and is hereillustrated to show one type of pocket with which the invention may beused; but it is `to be understood that the invention can be used withpockets differing specifically in construction from that illustrated.Furthermore, although the invention is particularly adapted for use withovercoat pockets and is shown as used with the pocket of an overccat, itis to be understood'that the invention is not limited to this particularuse.

In the manufacture of articles of apparel, such as coats, for instance,the piece of cloth which is to form a part of the finished coat is firstprovided with the pocket and then the pocket patch is placed over thepocket bag on the inner face of the cloth and is fastened thereto. Inthe present instance the pocket patch or covering` piece 14 is aquadrangular piece of cloth trapezoidal in shape and of sufficient sizeto amply cover the pocket bag. Two of the corners of the patch arerounded and the other two corners are left angular. The first step inprepa-ring the pocket patch for attachment to cloth 10 is to provide anextension or fold along one edge of the patch. The specific method offorming or providing this extension may differ within the broad scope ofthe invention, but in the embodiment illustrated, a separate piece orstrip 15 of flexible cloth is sewed along one edge to edge 16 of thepatch 14, using a single stitch sewing ma.- chine for this purpose. Inthe form of the invention shown in Figs. 1 and 2, strip 15 is about 1%inches wide while `in the form shown in Figs. 3 and 4 strip 15 is about2 inches wide, although it is to be understood that the invention is notlimited to these particular dimensions. It might well be stated at thispoint that in the form shown in Figs. 3 and 4 a wider strip is usedbecause in this form strip 15 is folded or creased to form several foldsallowing more expansion or movement of the patch relative to thematerial carrying the pocket. In this form, the strip 15 is firstcreased before attaching it to the patch and it is also desirable to sewtogether the materialof the strip adjacent one of the folds or creases,as at 17 to provide a permanent fold or crease. This sewing to ensure apermanent fold is done before the strip 15 is sewed to the patch.

Y After the strip 15 has been secured to one edge, three edges of thepatch, including the edge of the patch to which strip 15 is attached,areV finished with a binding 18. rl`his is preferably done on a pipingmachine, a machine which automatically folds the binding material andscws it to the material being operated upon. One edge of the patch, inthis case edge 19, is left unfinished or unpiped because when thcgarment is completed this edge of the patch will be toward the front ofthe garment and will be covered by the facing strip of the garment. Allthe edges of patch 14 can be piped when this is desirable. VJ hen pipingthe edges of patch 14, it is desirable to catch the end or ends of strip15 under the piping or binding 18.

After the edges of the pocket patch 14 have been finished, the patch isthen ready to be attached to the goods carrying the pocket. The patch isfirst placed over the pocket with edge 16, the `edge carrying theextension strip 15, adjacent the bottom of the pocketand with the strip15 between the patch and the piece of cloth 10. After the position whichthe patch is to occupy on the piece of goods 10 has been determined, theexact place is marked, as by chalk, one convenient form of markingcomprising a line for the bottom edge 16 of the patch and two marks nearthe top, one for each side of the patch. IIhe patch is then turned over(approximately with bottom edge 16 of the patch as the axis of turning)to expose eX- tension or bellows strip 15. Strip 15 is then secured orsewed at 20 to cloth 10, preferably by a blind stitch or fellingmachine, the line of sewing being adjacent the free longitudinal edge ofstrip 15. Patch 14 is thus connected along one edge by strip 15 to thepiece of cloth 10. After the last mentioned sewing operation, the patchis turned back to the position in which it covers pocket 12 and afterthe final position of the patch has been determined, with the aid of thechalk guide marks, the patch is ready for the final sewing or attachingoperation. To prevent displacement of the patch during the sewingoperation, I find it convenient to pin or 'otherwise temporarily attachpatch 14 to cloth 10 at two or more points before beginning to sew thepatch to cloth 10. This final sewing is preferably done on the blindstitch or felling machine. In sewing the three unattached edges or sides(21, 22 and 19) of the patch to the material 10 it is desirable to-startat one corner of the patch, preferably the lower right hand corner asshown in Figs. 1 and 3, and sew all around the edges or sides 21, 22 and19 of the patch, 23 representing the stitching, thus firmly and tightlysecuring these edges or sides of the patch to yso the Ymaterial carryingthe pocket. -`Before the coat or other article of apparel, of which the`piece of cloth 1() carrying the pocket is a part, is finished, edge orside 19 of the patch is covered by a facing strip and the patch andgoods 10 are firmly pressed together.` f

From the foregoing it will be seen that the improved method of formingand attachinga pocket patch embodying this invention obtains theadvantages ofthe extensible or bellows-fold connection for the pocketpatch and pocket-carrying material and at the same time the patchembodying this invention can be easily and quickly attached by automaticmachine stitching ensuring a durable connection and a neat appearance atsmall expense.

1tk is to be understood that the invention is not limited to the detailsof construction andy 4procedure hereinbefore disclosed and that avariety of changes can be made without departing from the spirit orscope of the invention. f

lVhat is claimed is:

1. A sewed article of apparel comprising a piece of cloth provided witha pocket opening, a pocket bag attached to said piece of cloth with themouth of the pocket bag adjacent the pocket opening in said piece ofcloth, and a patch secured to said piece'of cloth and covering saidpocket bag, three edges of said patch being'secured directly to saidpiece of cloth and the other edge of said patch being connected to saidpiece of cloth so that said edge can move away from the piece of cloth apredetermined distance.

2. A sewed article of apparel comprising a piece of cloth vprovided witha pocket opening, a pocketbag attached to said piece of cloth with themouth of the pocket bag adjacent the pocket opening in said piece ofcloth, and a patch secured to saidpiece.

of cloth Vand covering said pocket bag, all but one of `the edges ofsaid patchbeing secured directly to said piece ofcloth and the otheredge lbeing connected by a. fold or plait to said piece of cloth. f 3. Asewed article of apparel comprising a piece of cloth provided with a'pocket opening, a pocket bag attached to said piece of cloth ywiththemouth of the pocket bag adjacent the pocket opening in said piece ofcloth, a patch or covering piece secured to said piece of cloth andcovering said pocket bag, all but one of the edges of said patch orcovering piece being secured directly to said piece of cloth, the otheredge being free, and a cloth strip connecting said piece of cloth andthe free edge of said patcher covering piece.

il. A sewed article of apparel comprising a piece of cloth provided witha ocket opening, a pocket bag attached to sai piece of cloth with themouth of the pocket bag cloth and covering said pocket bag, all of Ytheedgesof said patch excepting the edge adjacent the bottom of said pocketbag being stitched directly to said piece of cloth, the edge adjacentthe bottom of the pocket bag being free, and a strip of cloth attachedalong one longitudinal edge to the free edge of said patch, said stripof cloth being attached to said piece of cloth soy that the stripextends for a short distance substantially parallel to, and between, thepatch and the piece of material.

5. A, sewed article of apparel comprising y a piece of cloth providedwith a pocket opening, a pocket bag attachedv to said piece ofcloth withthe mouth of the pocket bag adjacent the pockety opening in 'said pieceof cloth, a patch secured to said piece of cloth and covering saidpocket bag, all of the edges of said patch excepting the edge Fadjacentthe bottom of the pocket bag being stitched Vdirectly to saidvpieceof cloth, the edge of said patch adjacent the bottom of 'the pocket bagbeing free, and a flexible strip of dili'erent material attached alongone edge to said` free edge odi' said patch, said strip of materialbeing attached to said piece of cloth on a line substantially parallelto the line of attachment of the patch edge and strip of material andforming with the patch at least one fold lying between the patch yandthe piece of cloth.

6. A sewed article of apparel comprising a. piece of cloth yprovidedwith a pocket opening, a pocket bag attached to said piece of cloth withthe mouth of the pocket bag adjacent the pocket opening in said ypiece ocloth, a patch secured to said piece of cloth and covering said pocketbag, all of the 'edges of said patch excepting the edge adjacent thebottom of the pocket bag being stitched directly to said piece of cloth,the edge of said patch adjacent the bottom of the pocket bag being free,and a comparatively light-weight flexible strip of cloth attachedadjacent one longitudinal edge to wsaid free edge of said patch, saidstrip of cloth secured to said piece of cloth on a line substantiallyparallel to the line of attachment of said patch and strip of cloth,

said strip of cloth having a plurality of longitudinal folds forming abellows-fold connection between said patch and piece of cloth, the clothadjacent at least one fold being sewed together to form Va permanent:told or crease.

7 In an article of apparel, a pocket patch covering a pocket in saidarticle of apparel, said pocket patch stitched along all but one of itsedges directly to a .cloth base, the other edge being connected by afold or plait to saidy cloth base.

8. In an article of apparel, a pocket patch covering a pocket in saidarticle of apparel, said poclet patch secured along all but one of itsedges directly t0 the cloth forming the article,ithe other edgeprovided4 with a fold or extension-which is turned `under to lie hiddenbetween the patch and the cloth forming the article of apparel, the endof said fold or extension being secured to said cloth.

9. A sewed article of apparel comprising the combination, with a pieceof cloth provided with a pocket opening and a pocket bag attached tosaid piece of cloth withthe mouth ci the pocket bag adjacent the pocketopening, of a patch secured to said piece of cloth and covering saidpocket bag, all but one of theedges of said patch being directlystitched to said piece of cloth, and the other edge being connected bya` folder plait to said piece of cloth, one edge of said'fold 0r plaitbeing stitched to saidpiece of cloth.

l0. in an article of apparel, a pocket patch covering a pocket in saidarticle of apparel, said pocket patch provided with a folded extensionat one edge only.

l1. The method of forming and attaching a pocket patch to the piece ofmaterial con taining the pocket comprising forming an extension or foldalong. one edge of the patch, securing the extension orold to the pieceof material containing the pocket, and then securing the other edges ofthepatch directly to the piece of material containing the pocket.

l2. The method of forming and attaching a pocket patch to the piece ofmaterial containing the pocket comprising attaching one edge of a stripof cloth along one edge of the patch, securing said strip or" clothadjacent its other edge to the piece of material containing the pocket,and then sewing the other edges of the patch directly to the piece ofmaterial containing the pocket.

13. The method of forming and attaching a pocket patch to the piece ofmaterial containing the pocket comprising sewing one edge of a strip ofcloth to one edge of the patch, sewing said strip ot' cloth adjacent itsother edge to the piece of material containing the pocket, folding saidstrip of cloth so that it is between the patch and the materialcontaining the pocket, and then sewingthe other edges of thepatch'directly to the piece of material containing the pocket.

llt. The method of forming and attaching a pocket patch to the piece ofmaterial containing the pocket comprising attaching one edge of a stripof cloth tov one edge of the patch, attaching said strip of clothadjacent its other edge to the piece of material containing the pocketon a line adjacent to and substantially parallel to the'bottom of thepocket bag, and then sewing the other edges oil the patch directly tothe piece oi material containing the pocket.

l5. The method of forming and attaching a pocket patch to the piece ofmaterial containing the pocket comprising sewing one edge of a strip offlexible cloth along one edge of the patch, placing the patch on thematerial containing the pocket so that the patch covers the pocket withthe edge of the patch to which the cloth strip is attached adjacent toand substantially parallel to the bottom of the pocket, said strip ofcloth being between the patch and the piece of material carrying thepocket, turning the patch over to expose the cloth strip and then sewingsaid strip adjacent its other edge to the piece of material carrying thepocket, turning the pocket patch over so that it covers the cloth stripand the pocket, and sewing the unattached edges of the patch directly tothe material carryingthe pocket. c

16. The method of forming and attaching a pocket patch to the piece ofmaterial containing the pocket comprising machine sewing one edge of astrip otcloth along one edge of the patch, machine piping or binding theedges of said patch, attaching by machine felling or blindstitching saidstrip of cloth adjacent its other edge to the piece of materialcontaining the pocket on a line adjacent to and substantially parallelto the bottomk ofl the pocket bag, and then placing the patch over thepocket and sewing the unattached edges of the patch by machine tellingor blindstitching directly to the ma terial containing the pocket.

In testimony whereof I hereunto my signature.

WALTER DREIGINAS.

